1.   Tweeter Location.

From late 2003 the tweeter grill looks like this.  On all earlier models the panel was flat with a “leather look” grain to it, so that it actually matches the door panel, however the attachment is the same.  This panel has to be removed first before attempting to remove the door panel itself.

2.   Grasp the panel firmly just with your fingers and tug it towards you.  There are a couple of plastic clips and 2 plastic tubes which sit inside the door panel, and not much force is required to free the panel from the door.



Be careful as the tweeter is still connected to the panel, and to the door by it’s wiring loom.  Bonus points — can you guess what types of vehicles are in the side view mirror reflection?

3.   The tweeter is held in the panel by 2 slots.  Rotate the tweeter approx 90 degrees to separate it from the tweeter grill.  Note that the tweeter has both a grey and a brown wire going to it.  This may be useful later on...

4.   Now that the tweeter panel is removed, we can get access to one of the main door panel screws.  All the screws holding the door panel on are T20 Torx screws.  Some people insist on calling these "tamper-proof" screws but I think that is just because they don’t have the right tools to tamper with them.

5.   Next we’ll move on to the 2nd door screw.  This is a little further down from the first one, on the front edge of the door.

6.   Undo the Torx screw in the bottom of the interior door closing handle...





...and pop the handle up and out of the way.

Whilst we are on the subject, make sure you have a good spot to place all the removed bits so you don’t lose them.  We don’t want to introduce any extra rattles.

7.  Undo the last door panel screw, near the interior lock button at the back edge of the door.  Now, how many screws do you have?  If you didn’t answer 4, then you need to re-read the instructions.  Note: earlier model GTis may not have this last screw fitted, so if you can’t see one at the back of the door, don’t panic, you are not going mad — yet.

8.  Now you need to remove the interior door handle cover.  This has a number of clips and has to be pried off with a screwdriver, in classic Peugeot style.  Be gentle, and use a piece of cardboard or plastic when levering to prevent you damaging the door trim.  Once one clip is loose, it’s relatively easy from there.

9.  Now we need to attack the door clips.  There are approx half a dozen of these clips and they only know one method, and that’s brute force.  Once again we need a screwdriver (large) and a piece of cardboard/plastic to prevent damage.  Alternatively, you could use my trusty panel removal tool, which also doubles as an excellent Griffith’s QuickShift installation tool.

10. The best place to start is in the bottom rear corner, and work your way along and up from there.  There are lots of clips, about every 8 inches or so.  They require lots of pulling, and will go "pop" when they release.  It’s normal (unfortunately) for a couple to break when doing this.  Don’t worry, they will still work, just not as well as before!  For info, the part number of the clips is 6991E8.

11. Once all the clips are loose, the fun starts.  Pull the bottom of the panel away from the door and lift the panel up to clear the lock button and the trim at the bottom of the window.

12. Hot Tip: If you lay the panel on the lawn it will get grass all over it.

13. Now we have access to the mighty Hungarian-made Goodmans (not that there’s anything wrong with that).

14. There are 4 T20 Torx screws holding the speakers on...

15. ...and they are all under this silly foam ring.

16. Here it is, the 20W Hungarian-made speaker from Goodmans Loudspeakers Limited.  Note its naff almost 100% plastic construction.  Note the grey and brown wires again?  Only 2 wires (a +ve & and a −ve) come from the head unit to power this speaker — the green and pink wires in this case.  From here the grey and brown wires head back up to power the tweeter at the top of this door.

17. Here is a close-up of the speaker housing.  It’s also another good look at the wiring setup.  I love the recently-melted look from the housing on my 1 month-old car.  Almost any type of speaker you choose to put here will mean you have to cut the back of the housing away to accommodate it.  This is actually quite simple with a plain hacksaw blade (with some tape wrapped around the part you hold onto).