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1. Carefully
lift up the rim of the (front) E-window switches with a small flat
screwdriver blade. In order to avoid permanently marking the console, use a
piece of paper at the pivot point.
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2. Remove the
connector by lifting up the secure-clip.
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3. A bit
blurry, but this is what it looks like when removed. Connectors like this
are found throughout the car, not just here. Now we’re on the topic anyway:
as far as I have seen connectors from PSA, they all have some kind of
security retaining them. You cannot just pull them apart, the ones from the
seat airbags don’t apply.
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4. Remove the
connector from the E-mirrors by pushing in the retaining-clip and then pulling
it out.
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5. When fitted, remove (by hand) the
mounting for the seat heating and…
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6. …disconnect
the connectors...
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7. …by folding
out the retaining clip and pulling the connectors off.
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8. When fitted (in this case it is a
5-door SW GTi), also remove by hand the mounting for the rear E-windows by
pushing the two inner side mounted retainers on the inside towards the
centre.
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9. Here you can
see one retainer in case you were wondering.
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10. Press in the
retainers and pull out the connectors.
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11. Also here:
carefully, without making permanent markings, release the little cover at
the far rear of the second part of the centre console with the use of a
small flat screwdriver. Again, use a precautionary piece of paper at the
pivot point to prevent marking the console…
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12. …remove the
single Torx screw…
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13. …pull it a
bit backwards so it releases from the front part and wiggle it out from in-between
the belt retainers.
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14. Now the
handbrake linkage and adjustment is visible, the latter by folding open the
soundproofing material behind the lever. Normally the cables do not need
adjusting ever; the slack is automatically taken up by the mechanism in the
rear callipers. Five lever clicks is the normal adjustment. If it is more than
this, you can adjust the slack but there must be something else wrong
though; a malfunctioning calliper self-adjustment or failing cables. Check
that in that case!
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15. To be able
to take the front end out, you’ll need to get the handbrake lever out of
the way. You can try to get by without doing so, but I guarantee you: it
will not work and you’ll end up scratching the plastic and “white-folding”
it (stress marks). Remove the three M8 self-locking nuts. Be careful not to drop them down into
the chassis!
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16. This looks
violent, but it’s not. Because the cables are pre-tensioned even in the
released position (so the lever doesn’t bounce around when driving), the
lever assembly is “locked” tight on the M8 studs. In order not to damage
the thread, use a large flat screwdriver to release the tension from the
studs…
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17. …like so:
stick in the screwdriver about 2-3 cm until the tip is past the chassis’
sheet metal (car colour) and while it’s leaning against the handbrake
bracket, push the handle of the screwdriver towards the front of the car so
it’s easier to pull up the handbrake assembly and away. This may require
some muscle flexing J. If this
fails, you can slacken off the pre-tension, but count the number of turns.
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18. So, now the
hard part is done, unclip the leather shifter glove at the front, pull it
up the shifter shaft…
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19. …remove the
M6 self-locking nut (down where the switches of the E-window used to be)…
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20. …and remove
the ashtray, by opening the lid and pulling it upwards.
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21. Now take the
smallest screwdriver you can find and (with the handle in the ashtray hole)
pry the flat tip behind the underside of the mounting cover. Be aware that that
cover is actually mounded (in a flexible way) with the front end of the centre
console. You can actually hook it into a fixed position, see step 23…
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22. …but don’t
forget to disconnect and remove the ashtray light first!
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23. Remove the
two Torx screws just in front of the ashtray.
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24. Now slide
the console back as far as the handbrake assembly allows (until the
assembly hits the hole in the chassis and while keeping one eye on the
leads running under the console)…
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25. …away from
the dashboard. Don’t get too eager though:…
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26. …you first
have to disconnect the connector from the cigarette lighter. This is fiddly,
but on one of the long sides there is (also here!) a retainer. It is visible
on the picture when you look closely. Find it with your fingers, push in
the retainer and pull the connector out.
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27. Be careful
here: fold the front two “ears” outwards and slide the front-end first upwards
along the dashboard. It barely fits, but the alternative is to take a seat
out and after taking the console out you would agree that that’s not really
necessary to remove.
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If you used these
instructions to hook up extra accessories -- PDM, MP3 player, a cooling box
-- solder it neatly to the lighter leads, and tape it all off to prevent
short-circuits. It’s fused with a
30A fuse and has been accommodated as a power outlet as it is.
For your information:
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Green-yellow is ground (minus)
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Yellow is switched live (plus)
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Grey/Blue-black is switched light (no more than
5W!)
Don’t try to take the
cigarette lighter out though, it will not survive.
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Note:
When re-installing the
console, don’t forget to route the cables back to where they came from and
also don’t forget to re-connect all the connectors to where they came from.
Where there’s a left and right, plug green on green, black on black, and
make sure they are secure. Nothing is more irritating that dismantling it
all again because an electrical gadget doesn’t work. Also, make sure that
you restore any pre-tension in the handbrake cables if you backed it off in
step 17 above.
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