Peugeot 206 GTI

Intake hose

How to effectively and cheaply modify the intake of a 206.


The following instructions are regarding how to modify the intake in a cheap, but very useful way, in order to gain a better throttle response and additionally gain a few Newton-meters for “free”.

This guide is applicable for most cars and more precisely Peugeots, but it has been written especially regarding the 206 in combination with the 2.0 GTi engine. Since at this date (2003-11-12) the 206 RC/GTi180 had not been introduced officially and the airbox is different in shape, I have no clue if this guide regards this particular version. I know for sure though, that this guide is not applicable for the 206 with a 1.4 HDI engine, since on that engine the airbox is at another place and is of another shape.


First a little intro about the theoretics and practical how’s and why’s I went into this direction.


The reason why the Peugeot engineers (and trust me: they are not stupid and they do know what they are doing!) made the intake like it is originally is simple: comfort: to prevent engine intake noise and its vibrations to enter the interior. The downside is that it did cost a bit of torque.


When doing the modifications described in this “How To” will make this intake noise and vibrations come back again a bit, along with a better pick-up from idle. Fine! That’s where I was after: better pick-up! 


There were a few standard options I tried before this home made version:

I tested the K&N Generation two, Green Twister, Pipercross and they all perform reasonably, until the temperature under the bonnet rises, especially when the fan kicks in.

In that case under the bonnet the temperature can go all the way up to 68 degrees when the car’s standing still. I measured these extremes with an outside temperature of “only” 30 degrees and a tarmac temperature at a cosy 42.

I was surprised too reading those figures, but came to a simple conclusion: no Direct Intakes (open filters) under the bonnet (even with Power Blankets or Cold Air Ducts), since that’s throwing away power.

And they all did that, but I was going for drivability, not for power loss or loader intake sounds. They do sound deeper, but made me feel a bit like a McDonalds racer, to be quite honest.

If you’re after “under-hood appearance” and “all show – no go” sounds, you don’t have to read any further, because...


I brought all sets back (thanks to money back guarantee) and tried something with the original airbox, since that’s obviously the coldest solution when driving in warm conditions. Come to think of it: it’s logical the airbox is the best and coolest place to filter under the bonnet, since A: it’s closed, and B: warm air rises and the original airbox takes in its air from the underside of the engine bay.

Together with the fact that the airbox-intake (Ø60) is (Pr2 à 3.14*302=) 2827.5mm2, the air filter itself has an area of (c200x160=) 32000mm2 and the throttle valve (Ø50) only has (Pr2 à 3.14*252=) 1963.5mm2 makes the original stuff more than sufficient. (See, the Peugeot guys aren’t so stupid after all!).

But a paper filter clogs pretty fast, so that’s why I went for a K&N filter after all, but a panel filter in this case (Item Number 33-2813).

See on how to change that. Hint: clean the filter every 5-10,000 km to keep it “fresh”.


Another thing; I discovered during the fiddling that the throttle, or better the butterfly, didn’t open all the way and that’s obviously throwing horses away too.

Check out for that solution, if necessary.


So, while the reason the intake air is taken from out of the left fender area is clearer now, but problem with that particular place is, is that it makes the way towards the airbox very long. And together with the fact that it is padded on the inside, makes the Ø60 mm hose very restrictive. The padding and the length decrease the actual usable effective diameter, due to swirling.

You want a guess? Ø50 effectively? About the same diameter as the throttle valve. This creates a under pressure in the intake, before the throttle body while accelerating from idle.

Hence; poor response. Aha!


Secondly the near the fender (and especially under it) is a hot place in warm days combined with some heavy-duty braking. It can get very hot under there; about 50 degrees! This time resulting in useless power loss, the same you get with Direct Air Filters, mounted in the engine bay!


So, if you don’t mind some intake roar (probably not! J), get rid of it and replace the intake hose with a large diameter flexible alloy Ø110mm ventilation pipe from a DIY home improvement shop (a flexible ventilation hose).

Sure this spiralled hose creates swirling too and sure; the bend and length is also restrictive, but if you want a guess here too; I give it the same in percentage as the OEM hose, 83.3%. That means in this case a 76.4mm effective diameter. Nice; bigger than any diameter in the intake! Suits me fine!


So, what about head-on in the wind; that’s the coolest and I get an extra free “turbo-effect” boost?

Well, I tried that, but that doesn’t really give any measurable profit; actually it only creates a leaner air-fuel mixture and successively (two oxygen sensors in the exhaust!) freaks-out the ECU at speeds over 170kph! Simply because it can’t handle the over-pressure of the air coming in. There is a MAP sensor mounted in the intake manifold, but it can only measure under-pressure (vacuum), no over-pressure (boost).


OK, I needed to find a cool non-pressurised (neither over, nor under) and I decided in the corner behind the bumper is the best and coolest place (measured!) and not really that far from the airbox.


So much for the intro.


Start off with removing the air intake with this guide:, but leave the airbox out, the airbox support in and leave it as it is for now.


Click on the images to enlarge.


1.      As you can see, I already started to take things apart. The duct ends at the airbox side with a tapered plastic ring with a rubber seal. I wanted to maintain that order to leave everything as original as possible. This way the airbox is still easily removable.



2.      Start off by cutting that plastic ring neatly and straight in half, just over the clip which is holding it on the iron airbox support (Sorry for the blurry pictures, it was the background that the camera couldn’t handle) …



3.      until you have this left. As you can see; some parts need to be cannibalised in order for other parts to remain original. I chose the air intake to be eaten…

Since the ring was tapered from Ø68 towards Ø60mm, so cut halfway the hole is now about Ø64 to Ø63mm.



4.      Now it’s time for the big trick. How to connect the big Ø110mm flex-pipe to the Ø60mm plastic ring: get a bass ventilation-port made for a subwoofer! Ideal in flow and an ideal adaptor. It can probably be bought at you local speaker dealer. I did!

Be careful it’s not too long and has a wall thickness of 1.5 – 2mm. I cut the funnel down until it was exactly Ø60 inner diameter (it tapered from Ø70 to Ø55mm) and shove it in the Peugeot part you just cut down.  



5.      Be sure to buy (or grind down) the funnel at the wide end, so in fits in the Ø110mm flex pipe.

This it how it looks in the position it will be fixed in the car...



6.      .and this is how it looks from the side. Test the length by putting it in the car and put the airbox in its place. I made the two diameters hit each other just, creating a perfect Ø60mm passage between the inside diameter of the bass-pipe and the inside diameter of the airbox intake.




7.      After adjusting the funnel so that it leaves no gap between the two diameters, measure the height and take the airbox and the “adaptor” out of the engine bay. Take 2-component glue (or a good glue pistol) and glue the two parts together at the measured dimension. Give it time to dry and test if it is *really* secured!



8.      At big step has been made on this picture (the bumper is taken off for a better view): Put the “adaptor” in the bottom of the airbox support. Now bend the flex-pipe in an as short as possible radius (so it’s not the lowest point of the car). Push the hose over the funnel about 15 too much and secure it with a large diameter jubilee clip. Fold down the remaining hose over the back of the funnel.



9.      Without the removal of the bumper the next is a fit of a fiddle but it’s do-able.

Roughly cut down the pipe until it’s about coincident with the outside of the LH tyre. Put the inner wing (or mud guard) back inside the bumper and fender.



10.  Cut the pipe again down so it does not pass the little hole in the bottom of the inner wing (see picture). This hole is used to adjust the LH fog-light and at the same time a perfect guide to have enough clearance between the bumper and hose (about 60 – 80mm). PS. one can put a Ø110 id funnel here too, I can’t find one this big!



11.  Drill 4 Ø6mm holes in a 120mm square pattern starting at 15 mm off-set from the upwards edge and about 60mm from the curved edge, so the two outer ones are about 50mm passed the previous mentioned adjustment hole (see picture).     



12.  This is how it looks when the pipe is fixed to the help of 2 long (or four shorter) tie-wraps. Wiggle the inner wing in its place and mount it in its original position. Don’t forget to re-connect the fog-light cable!



13.  So, this is how it looks on the other end in the engine bay. Note: if the hose is hitting the power leads, bend the iron hook towards holding the lead towards the centre of the engine bay, so the lead pipe goes around the aluminium hose. If they hit, it can cause a hole in the pipe and resonations under load.



14.  Put some White Grease on the 3 rubber parts of the airbox and put it back into place (I know; the picture only shows the air connection…), re-connect the flex hose (on top towards the throttle-body) and secure the jubilee clip. That’s all.


Give the engine, or better: the ECU, a few days to accommodate and adjust to the new intake and filter. Once it’s adjusted the engine picks up like it should all along, together with a nice soft roar, enough to distinguish it’s a GTi.




A.      For your information: here’s the Ø50mm throttle valve, with over it the “half moon” section for idle running. A stepper motor controlled valve connected to the ECU regulates the airflow through this canal.








B.     I even took the time to make a fibreglass Peugeot Sport 206 Super1600 bottom part copy of the airbox with a 110mm intake K&N panel filter and top half narrowing from Ø90 to Ø60mm), but without a 220HP 10,000 rev rally engine and apart from giving a lot of roar it doesn’t do anything more than the above modification. It’s just a time-consuming and expensive mother to fabricate. I tossed it in a corner (since I didn’t look at aesthetics, only functionality, it looks like crap), but I can still feel the fibreglass itching in my arms J




The gain from original: 12Nm at 2800 (only from idle to full-throttle, due to the absence of vacuum in that case) and a handful horses at 5800~ in cold *and* warm conditions (due to the K&N filter). I clocked my car (206 SW GTi going 4kph faster (now 225 on the speedometer) in combination with German Shell Optimax (RON102).


All in all it took me a couple of months but I think it was worth it. Done in practice, no guess-work on paper or from hear-say. And again, the (highly over-exaggerated) gains claimed by the different direct induction kit manufactures is mostly due to the removal of the restrictive intake hose and a freer flowing filter material, but has nothing to do with their overprized kits in particular.

To give you a example: a K&N Generation II Direct Injection costs a whopping DKK 3.743,75 (€506,-) !!!

You do the math…



Still interested in a bolt-on direct injection kit?


K&N info; see: Kit, Kit fitted, and Graph.

Taken from (Use the pull-downs to end up at Peugeot, 206, 2.0)


Green Info; see Fitting instructions

Taken from


Pipercross info:







© 2003-11-12, The Peugeot 206 GTi page.



Home Home FAQ
Yahoo! 206GTI Mailing List

206GTIs in WA
206GTIs in NSW Stickers
VIC Drive 07/08/05
NSW Drive 25/07/04
VicRun 18/07/04
Bathurst 23/05/04
Peugeot Experience 14/05/04
Schlumpf Collection 14/05/04
Adelaide Drive 26/04/04
Easter Melbourne Drive 11/04/04
WA Drive 21/02/04
Sydney Drive 01/02/04
WA Drive 30/11/03
Sydney Drive 19/10/03
WA Drive 28/09/03
WA Drive 20/07/03
Sydney Drive 08/06/2003
Melbourne Drive 08/06/2003
WA Drive 04/05/2003
Vic Drive22/02/2003
WA Track Day 16/02/2003
Perth Drive 09/02/2003
Sydney Drive 9/02/2003
Perth Drive 16/11/2002
Sydney Drive 3/11/2002
Melbourne Drive 27/10/2002
Sydney Motor Show 2002
Perth Drive 29/09/2002
Adelaide Run 11/08/2002
Adelaide Run 21/07/2002
Canberra French Car Day 14/07/02
Victorian Run 31/3/2002
Canberra Run 10/030/2002
Victorian Run 17/2/2002
Adelaide Run 3/2/2002
Track Day 30/9/2001
206 Escapade Concept Pics
206SW Concept Pics
MMC's Car
Changing the Gearbox Oil
PVL's gearbox notes
What lights where
Removing Door Trim
DIY Oil Change
Taking the Lower Console Apart
Changing Licence Plate Lights
Intake Modifications
'04 Tweeter Change
Changing Front Pads and Discs
Taking off the front bumper
How to check the Throttle Cable
How to Remove the outside mirror
Inside the Key
How to remove the air intake
Changing your airfilter
DIY OEM Phone holder Install
How to fix the buzzing at 2800rpm
How to change the Aircon lights
MY02 Changes
Taking Delivery Hints
Tips on things to check and note before delivery
Performance and the 206GTI
Notes on improving the performance of the 206GTI
Known 206 Problems
On Wildgust's site in the UK
RD3 External Amp
Notes on the 206GTI Stereo
What you get and how to replace it!
Damien's Stereo
Shaun's Stereo
Changing the Front Speakers
How to Change the Front Speakers
Changing the Rear Speakers
How to Change the Rear Speakers
SimonC's Rear Speaker HOWTO
Shaun's Adventures in 206 Hifi
Upgrading the 2040 Head Unit
DIY Parcel Shelf
Ben's Eibach Suspension
Yokohama A539 Review
Brake Upgrade
Quick Shifts
Tim Installs a Griff QS
More Griff QS Install
DIY 206 Quickshift
John's DIY Mesh Grill
How to Change Front Globes
DIY Filter Heat Shield
Esscargo/Northshore Rallysport do some cool kits for the Pugs
L.A.D. Motorsport
Well known UK Peugeot Tuners
SuperChips Denmark
Have a webpage on the K&N 57i for the 206GTI.
Make Induction Kits
Ecosse Peugeot UK
Sell a variety of bits, specifically the Pipercross induction kit
Australian Peugeot Performance and Styling Parts
Auto Paris
Melbourne based Parts (Devil, Black Diamond etc) and Pug servicing
Griffiths Engineering
UK suppliers of Pug Short Shift Kits
Owners Reviews
PVL's 206SW GTi Review
Richard's Review of his 02 Spec Car
Andrew MacPherson's Review of his new Oz Spec Car
Russell Ayling's Review of his Oz Spec Car
Jim's Review of his new HK Spec Car
Jim's Review of the K&N 57i Induction kit
Waynes's Review of his HK Spec Car
Wildgust's 206GTI (owner) review
Rally News
Peugeot 206WRC Team
Rally News and Live Times
Peugeot Lion Fan Site
Clubs and Peugeot Info Home
Australia/NZ Peugeot Clubs
Peugeot Car Club of WA
Peugeot Car Club of SA
Peugeot GTI Club
They've have an Oz division now
Nick's Australian 306GTI-6 Site
Nick's the Australian representative of the UK Pug GTI Club!
Peugeot Resources WorldWide
Yahoo Peugeot 206 club
Darren's 206GTI WebPage
Simon's 206Group Page
Peugeot Logic Oz Technical Info
Peugeot Australia
A hidden 206 Gallery
Peugeot UK GTI Site
Check the WallPaper under goodies!
Peugeot Worldwide
Reviews - Magazines
Drive's Review 25/11/1999
Drive's Review 12/20/1999
YellowPages Online's Review
Another NineMSN Review
Motor's Australian 206GTI review
Motor's 206GTI vs Honda VTiR vs Proton Satria GTI
Which Car Austalia 206GTI review
NineMSN Carpoint's Peugeot 206GTI Car Info
NineMSN Carpoint's 206GTI Gallery's 206GTI Review
UK FleetNews 206GTI Review
Non-Online Articles List Peugeot News

More Peugeot News ...
Subscribe to peugeot-206gti
Powered by

Search WWW

My email address is: