1.       Jack the car up (use stands!) and remove the left wheel. The inner wing consists out of two parts: the front and the back half.

It’s only necessary to take of the front half. 

2.       Near the shock absorber there are two mushroom-shaped clips. They are two-pieced and they can be released by pulling out the centerpiece.

The photo shows number one…

3.       …and this is number two: on your side of the shock absorber.

4.       The third mounting point is under the bumper on the corner…

5.       …and the fourth one where the spoiler stops.

6.       Take out the front half of the inner wing and be careful of your paintjob doing this!

Note: Versions without the air-condition option have this appendicle plug (second fan), which has continuously runs current on the main lead. After a while it starts to look green from copper oxidation. Clean it and put some Vaseline in/on it to avoid problems in the future. (Don’t use a conducting grease like copper-grease, which can short-cut the battery)

7.       Anyway, this is how it looks like with the inner wing removed. “Strangely” enough, as you can see, it’s not the cleanest (or coolest for that matter) part of the car to suck air into the engine, but the Peugeot took this place for being the air intake anyway, like the Ford engineers did with (for instance) the Puma 1.7. This is mainly done to create a reasonable intake-hose length (which is structured on the inside) and takes air from out of the cramped engine-bay, to cut down in intake noise, but at the same time it’s choking the engine. This explains why the pick-up is slow from idle.  

8.       The top of the funnel is stuck to the car with Velcro (!). Rip it loose and take the remaining square bit out of the slot by pushing it upwards.

9.       The lower part of the funnel is clipped onto the body at two places, but that does not mean you can take it out right away: the fog-light is preventing that by sitting irritatingly in the way.

10.   So, the next step is taking out the left fog-light: Take the plug off by pushing in the steel wire thingy…

11.   …take out the M6 bolt…

12.   …and unclip the fog-light out of the bumper, by turning it upwards. This is a bit poorly designed because it hits the inner bumper, almost preventing to take the foglight out.

After a few strong words your mother doesn’t like you to say, the unit is out…

13.   …and hopefully still looks like this J.

14.   Now you can easily take the funnel downwards out of the wing.

Note: by the way, the funnel is fixed to the duct by means of clips, but that doesn’t make any difference in how to take the funnel out. I tried: I’ve put everything back in, fog-light back in its place, but no go. Strange designing here…

Hook the fog-light carefully back in its place and fix it with the M6 bolt.

15.   Okay, in order to take the remaining piece out now it’s time to remove the air-box. Open the bonnet, and release the clip mounted over the pipe between the air-box and the throttle-body.

If you want to change the air-filter, now is the time to do so. Need any help with that?

Try http://206gti.net/airfilter/

16.   Take off the hose, which connects the box to the intake-knee and pull out the air-box straight upwards.

Now you can take the intake duct out, by sliding it towards the center of the car, out of the fork.

17.   If you car is equipped with the battery cover, pull off the drain pipe from it

If you’re mounting a Direct Induction Kit (K&N 57i, or equivalent) and you don’t need the air-box hardware anymore either, so you can take out the air-box mounting plate too:

18.   Pull off the loom which is hooked into the mounting-plate, take out the M6 bolt, which is holding it to the chassis…

19.   …and unhook the plate by sliding it upwards until it releases and take it out from underneath the car.

Note: Be careful not to hit the radiator!

20.   Since you can’t get the remaining cage-nut out of the chassis (I tried and failed to do it neatly) and it rattles when nothing is fixed to it, put the M6 bolt back mentioned in step 18.

21.   Do not forget to tie the loom to the clutch wire (or in the case of RHD the hydraulic clutch pipe) with help of a tie-wrap. The loom contains the wiring towards and from the engine and thus important enough not to have it dangling under the car.

22.   Put the wheel and the nuts back using a torque-wrench:

90 Nm for steel wheels and 110 Nm for aluminum wheels and check it again after 500 km.