Peugeot 206 GTI

Paul's Guide to Building your own 206 QuickShift

This was sent in by Paul Van Lieshout from Denmark. He's developed it on his 206S16 but should work on any non-HDi 206! If you have any questions, email him directly at Paul. Thanks Paul for doing this!

WARNING: Neither Paul nor can take any responsibility for any damage or harm that come from using this modification. Do this at your OWN RISK!

If your thinking about putting a quick-shift in your car, it doesn’t necessarily have to cost that much.You can make the linkage yourself, instead of buying an expensive one. There are also Short-throw sticks for sale, but they require a different knob. They are in ‘free’ not in the middle of your console and don’t like the heat shields underneath your car. And did I forget to tell you, that you have to take the exhaust away to reach it?


Anyway, this homemade linkage has been tested and does not hit the gearbox, leaves the stick where it is and is in ‘free’ in the middle but it gives around a 50% reduced movement of the stick, without being chunky when you shift gears. Just follow the instructions carefully.  The down parts of getting it in the car are coming later, but you will forget all about that, when you’re zooming through the gears as if you own a Ferrari F40.  I’m not sure this one will work in the new Turbo-diesels. You have to find that out yourself.


First of all: race to your dealer and order a new original linkage with the part number CI 244988. You have to push the warehouse manager a bit, because it is a ‘special part’, which cannot be found in the normal system. It has to be asked for at the importer, but the number is correct. It’ll set you back around €35


Note: If you’re very sure of yourself you can use the existing linkage already in the car, but that’s up to you. Don’t come crying to me, if you have to go pick up your girlfriend in your mother’s ´85 Corsa 1.0 TR, because your own car is stuck in gear and you cannot put back the original linkage!


Secondly: find the linkage bolted very low down on the sub-frame of the car just next to the steering rack and you will see now what the down part is for this conversion; the accessibility, or better, the lack of it.  Work from underneath or from the top, it doesn’t matter; you’ll get scratches over your hands and arms anyway.  Or take out the engine, which gives you all the space you need, but I think that’s a little bit drastic…


Anyway, now it is time for getting the linkage out of the car.  That brings us nicely to down part #2: the, with tread-lock covered, long M16 bolt, to be screwed upwards, out of the sub-frame. Be sure you eat first, have a full cup of coffee close to you, a couple of cigarettes and a full lighter within reach, cause you’ll need it. It will take you sometime.


When there is no thread left, pull out the bolt and you will find a washer at the top and bottom of the linkage. Be careful, you can lose the lower one easily. Now twist the linkage, to release the small ball joint at the end of the rod, connecting it with the gearbox. And finally remove the two nylon bushes out of the linkage, because you don’t get them with your new one.


Now it’s time to modify your new fresh linkage. This is difficult to explain in words, so I made some drawings to clarify the modification. Before you do any cutting or welding, pull off the white nylon ball, otherwise the heat from cutting and welding does it for you… Keep in mind to stick to the dimensions as much as possible, even though I know it is a little difficult to measure them. Don’t forget the 10° cut-out, to change the angle from 80° to 90°, because this will put the stick back in the middle.



                            Original                                                                   Modified



                            Original                                                                   Modified


If want to be sure the angles and distances are correct, just spot-weld it all first, put it in the car and see if it will work standing still.  Don’t feel the urge of going for a spin, because you will probably be ending up stuck in 5th gear, in the middle of nowhere, because it cannot cope with the forces and break off!  And keep in mind that the new style silent-block motor rubbers make the engine and gearbox rock a lot more than you expect. So keep enough clearances everywhere.


After that take it out and, weld it solid. 


Oh, as a pointer, the dimensions in the drawing are in millimetres ;-).


Now it comes down to putting it all back into the car. Why not grease the pivot-points a bit, while you’re at it, don’t forget the put thread lock on the M16 bolt and really test-drive it.


Pointer: Bending the rods between the linkage and the gearbox a little can make minor adjustments if necessary.


If you don’t come home with a smile, you simply did something wrong. But the good part is (at least if you were smart and bought a new linkage), you can always change in back to standard, so your car is always drivable.


And you don’t have to embarrass your girlfriend…


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