Peugeot 206 GTI

The lifespan of a gearbox depends on how it has been used previously

How to treat the gearbox?



The lifespan of a gearbox depends on how it has been used during its life. It’s a simple as that. If the box get’s noisy, or goes kaput, 9/10 it’s your fault only or/and the car’s user before you, in the case if it is a used car.

If you’re buying a used car and you stumble upon a car with a sloppy stick, noisy changes and whining driving, simply don’t buy that one. If the gearbox has been treated that bad, how are the rest of its mechanics been used and how well have they been maintained, if maintained at all.

Many times when the car is out of it’s warranty-period, people seem to “forget” the maintenance because it’s too expensive.    


Keep the following points under consideration and the lifespan of your gearbox will be significantly extended. Starting with the worst:


·         Do change oil regularly.

Though practically no manufacturer advises an oil change for their gearboxes at all, they simply state its oil is holds for a lifetime. Why this is I have no clue, because there’s always synchromesh wear -where the debris eats in the gasket seals-, water can come in through its ventilation on the top, and there’s always the leakage along the drive axles seals and between gearbox half shells.

Leakage is the biggest gearbox killer; since there are only a few litres in there and a leakage of a few drops a day over several years is enough to loose too much oil from the ‘box to still function properly. But before it is empty the fifth gear’s needle bearings will give the ghost because of lack of lubrication, due to the fact the fifth is positioned ‘outside’ the actual gearbox. It gets just enough lubrication when the oil is on level, but only gets oil by chance if the level is only a bit -say half a litre- under it. Long lefthanders don’t do any good either, in that case. Hot, thin oil on long drives neither. And if there’s water in the oil it will become *very* thin, since it will start to foam in that case!

So, check the level -or have it checked- at every engine oil change. Don’t listen to the ‘sealed for life’ guarantees from the professionals or people who think they know.

It’s as simple as undo the level plug and eventual fill up until it refluxes. Leave it running out until it stops dripping and put the plug back with a new seal ring. Otherwise you are ‘carrying water to the sea’. Go cheap on the ring and it is better not to check at all, because the plug will start to leak as a fishnet!

A gearbox oil change (which normally costs max €100/$160 if done at the dealer) should be done every 60-100,000 km. Keep at least to the advised grade stated in the manual, but a known brand full-synthetic is better. Stick to the normal ones, not the friction reducing crap. Same story for add-ons: don’t: the PTFE used in for example Slick50 causes the metal debris to continuously float around in the oil instead of it getting caught by the magnet fitted in every gearbox (sometimes on the end of the drain plug, sometimes in the box itself). Plus a worn box cannot be fixed by add-ons. It simply needs an overhaul.      


·         Secondly, avoid jerky power changes, such as clutch-drop launches and full throttle accelerations followed by sudden idle (full deceleration) repeatedly.

Though for some it’s incomprehensible that a gearbox can’t handle this abuse (“a WRC car can do that too” failing to understand it has a straight-cut purpose-build ‘box that, even though it’s supposed to be bullet-proof, lives for two rounds only), so they claim that “my ‘box is crap” after they themselves totally wore out each and every single mechanical part in the gearbox…

Hopefully you can now make your own opinion next time you hear a story like that. 


·         Avoid fast gear shifts, especially in combination with short-shifts.

Largely like the above, since a road ‘box is not a straight-cut dog ‘box, it’s made for comfort and actually has something called synchromesh rings to make the gearshifts smoothly and noise-free (ever hear a dog ‘box engage 1st gear?). The best way to shift gears is to “slowly” pull it out of gear and hold it against the next gear until the gearbox’ synchromesh has done its work and the lever almost gets “sucked” into gear.

A good gearbox manages this in half a second, so it’s not going cause you to miss your dinner.  


·         Avoid shifting diagonally when making a change from (for example) 3rd to 2nd. Use a square movement following the H-shape as pointed out on the lever. Mechanically this is how it’s supposed to be done and if not, the levers and the internal shifter-forks and its shifter-rail will wear unnecessarily. Over time this will show as a sloppy, gutless lever and when it becomes excessive it will be impossible to shift into reverse and/or 5th.


·         Don’t put your hand on the shifter when you’re not changing gears. Basically for the same as above. Unnecessary wear on the mechanics and especially the gear used as the armrest gear, which is normally the fifth.


·         Also under the chapter "bad habits"; don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal either. This will keep the clutch’ thrust bearing unnecessarily engaged over long periods and it simply cannot cope with that. It's a bit of a waste to have a big operation like removing the gearbox from the car, just to renew the clutch bearing.


·         Last but not least; do treat the clutch with respect. Fully depress the clutch pedal with each and every shift. As with gearboxes, there is a significant difference between race and road clutches. The first is made for (again) comfort, so even your granddad can drive you car and for mechanical preservation. A road clutch plate is made with a centre part (attached to the gearbox) and the outer part with the friction material (connected -when the clutch is engaged- to the flywheel of the engine and the two are separated by springs fitted in a radial fashion around the clutch’ centre. These springs help to isolate the transmission from the shock of the clutch engaging. All the forces go through these springs. The more you “launch”, the more you abuse the springs (apart from nearly every other single mechanical part of the drivetrain). There are also waved sheet-springs between the front and backside of the clutch’ outer plates, under the friction material. These are fitted to progressively engage the clutch, just help you not to stall the engine. A race clutch is one pieced, purely made to get the torque from A to B, no build-in comfort at all. That’s one reason why it’s much easier to stall an engine when trying to drive off, if the engine’s fitted with a race clutch. Long story short; if you don’t have one fitted, don’t treat the standard clutch like a race clutch and stop imitating what you see on TV.

Home Home FAQ
Yahoo! 206GTI Mailing List

206GTIs in WA
206GTIs in NSW Stickers
VIC Drive 07/08/05
NSW Drive 25/07/04
VicRun 18/07/04
Bathurst 23/05/04
Peugeot Experience 14/05/04
Schlumpf Collection 14/05/04
Adelaide Drive 26/04/04
Easter Melbourne Drive 11/04/04
WA Drive 21/02/04
Sydney Drive 01/02/04
WA Drive 30/11/03
Sydney Drive 19/10/03
WA Drive 28/09/03
WA Drive 20/07/03
Sydney Drive 08/06/2003
Melbourne Drive 08/06/2003
WA Drive 04/05/2003
Vic Drive22/02/2003
WA Track Day 16/02/2003
Perth Drive 09/02/2003
Sydney Drive 9/02/2003
Perth Drive 16/11/2002
Sydney Drive 3/11/2002
Melbourne Drive 27/10/2002
Sydney Motor Show 2002
Perth Drive 29/09/2002
Adelaide Run 11/08/2002
Adelaide Run 21/07/2002
Canberra French Car Day 14/07/02
Victorian Run 31/3/2002
Canberra Run 10/030/2002
Victorian Run 17/2/2002
Adelaide Run 3/2/2002
Track Day 30/9/2001
206 Escapade Concept Pics
206SW Concept Pics
MMC's Car
Changing the Gearbox Oil
PVL's gearbox notes
What lights where
Removing Door Trim
DIY Oil Change
Taking the Lower Console Apart
Changing Licence Plate Lights
Intake Modifications
'04 Tweeter Change
Changing Front Pads and Discs
Taking off the front bumper
How to check the Throttle Cable
How to Remove the outside mirror
Inside the Key
How to remove the air intake
Changing your airfilter
DIY OEM Phone holder Install
How to fix the buzzing at 2800rpm
How to change the Aircon lights
MY02 Changes
Taking Delivery Hints
Tips on things to check and note before delivery
Performance and the 206GTI
Notes on improving the performance of the 206GTI
Known 206 Problems
On Wildgust's site in the UK
RD3 External Amp
Notes on the 206GTI Stereo
What you get and how to replace it!
Damien's Stereo
Shaun's Stereo
Changing the Front Speakers
How to Change the Front Speakers
Changing the Rear Speakers
How to Change the Rear Speakers
SimonC's Rear Speaker HOWTO
Shaun's Adventures in 206 Hifi
Upgrading the 2040 Head Unit
DIY Parcel Shelf
Ben's Eibach Suspension
Yokohama A539 Review
Brake Upgrade
Quick Shifts
Tim Installs a Griff QS
More Griff QS Install
DIY 206 Quickshift
John's DIY Mesh Grill
How to Change Front Globes
DIY Filter Heat Shield
Esscargo/Northshore Rallysport do some cool kits for the Pugs
L.A.D. Motorsport
Well known UK Peugeot Tuners
SuperChips Denmark
Have a webpage on the K&N 57i for the 206GTI.
Make Induction Kits
Ecosse Peugeot UK
Sell a variety of bits, specifically the Pipercross induction kit
Australian Peugeot Performance and Styling Parts
Auto Paris
Melbourne based Parts (Devil, Black Diamond etc) and Pug servicing
Griffiths Engineering
UK suppliers of Pug Short Shift Kits
Owners Reviews
PVL's 206SW GTi Review
Richard's Review of his 02 Spec Car
Andrew MacPherson's Review of his new Oz Spec Car
Russell Ayling's Review of his Oz Spec Car
Jim's Review of his new HK Spec Car
Jim's Review of the K&N 57i Induction kit
Waynes's Review of his HK Spec Car
Wildgust's 206GTI (owner) review
Rally News
Peugeot 206WRC Team
Rally News and Live Times
Peugeot Lion Fan Site
Clubs and Peugeot Info Home
Australia/NZ Peugeot Clubs
Peugeot Car Club of WA
Peugeot Car Club of SA
Peugeot GTI Club
They've have an Oz division now
Nick's Australian 306GTI-6 Site
Nick's the Australian representative of the UK Pug GTI Club!
Peugeot Resources WorldWide
Yahoo Peugeot 206 club
Darren's 206GTI WebPage
Simon's 206Group Page
Peugeot Logic Oz Technical Info
Peugeot Australia
A hidden 206 Gallery
Peugeot UK GTI Site
Check the WallPaper under goodies!
Peugeot Worldwide
Reviews - Magazines
Drive's Review 25/11/1999
Drive's Review 12/20/1999
YellowPages Online's Review
Another NineMSN Review
Motor's Australian 206GTI review
Motor's 206GTI vs Honda VTiR vs Proton Satria GTI
Which Car Austalia 206GTI review
NineMSN Carpoint's Peugeot 206GTI Car Info
NineMSN Carpoint's 206GTI Gallery's 206GTI Review
UK FleetNews 206GTI Review
Non-Online Articles List Peugeot News

More Peugeot News ...
Subscribe to peugeot-206gti
Powered by

Search WWW

My email address is: