1.       Jack up the car, use an additional stand and remove the wheel.

2.       Push (with the help of a large screwdriver as a pivot arm) the piston as far as possible back in the caliper.

3.       Remove the bottom M6x20mm bolt, which is holding the caliper fixed to the slider pin.

4.       Open the caliper by turning it along the upper slider pen. Take out the pads, clean the contact point and put the new pads in. Apply copper grease if you think it’s necessary.

I just don’t like the combination of brakes and grease, but that’s personal. The cars leave the factory without, but some mechanics do apply, some don’t. You choose, but be carefull.

If you want to continue taking the disks off, wait with point for until the disk has been replaced.

5.       Remove the upper M8x20mm bolt and gently put the caliper in a free hanging position from the brake hose.

6.       Remove the M10x20mm bolts fixing the anchor-brace to the upright.

7.       Remove the two M6-Torx30 bolts, which fix the disk to the hub.

8.       After a couple of years of bonding the disk needs some convincing to give up its attachment with the hub. Use a plastic (not rubber or steel) hammer to knock it loose with some well aimed hits.

9.       Before fitting the new disk, clean the face of the hub with a steel brush and apply a little (!) copper grease, to prevent things sticking in the future.

10.   Put everything together in reverse order (apply a bit of “Lock-tite” to the M10 and M8 bolts and keeping the following torques in mind:

The M10x20 mm bolts with 80Nm (or as tight as possible with a hand tool)

The M8x20 bolts with 30Nm (or hand tight plus 30 degrees)

The M6 Torx bolts hand tight