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What is an FAQ ?
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FAQ stands for Frequently Asked Questions, where website users are able to have common questions answered quickly. There are millions of FAQ documents on diverse topics available on the Internet. They are usually produced and maintained by volunteers. This FAQ answers questions primarily about the Peugeot 206GTi (and other 206 variants). [gc]
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Something is missing from the FAQs page.
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If you have suggestions or comments about the FAQ you can email the
[gc]
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Where should I start with modifications?
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What did you have in mind?
- Air filters?
- Exhausts?
- Tyres?
- Wheels?
- Brakes?
- Body kits?
- ICE?
This forum is a pretty good place to find most of these topics addressed, sooner or later ... but if you want to be sure of what it is exactly that you are trying to achieve with your "performance modifications", check out these articles on the subject of horsepower, torque, and some other basic concepts.
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Why should I buy a 206GTi rather than a ...?
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Hey, we're not on commission here; we're just enthusiastic fans. If you want to peddle your preferences for something else, expect an argument, but at the end of the proverbial day, it's your decision, and your money.However, if you're genuinely undecided, or looking for technical (or other) reasons to support your decision, we're genuinely committed to trying to persuade you that you'd probably be better off behind the wheel of a 206 ...[bb]
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What is the 206RC - - and where can I get one?
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At the time of writing this (March 2003) the 206RC (or GTi180 as it's also known) is unavailable. The RC has a more potent 2ltr engine with variable valve timing and redesigned inlet manifold and extractors. An oil cooler is also tipped for the RC. Other upgrades include upgraded suspension (20mm lower as well), new interior including Recaro seats, 17" rims, electrically foldable mirrors, shorter gear shift, slightly different gear ratios, increased top speed (230kph), increased rev limit (7300rpm), lower 0-100kph times (rumoured to be possibly sub 7sec mark) and new dial faces and instrument panel changes. The car is due for release in 2Q 2003, but not until the 4Q in Australia. Pre-orders and deposits are being taken so visit your local Peugeot dealer to join the waiting list. You can see extra information on the RC/GTi180 here or here or on 206GTi.net. [gc]
The 206 GTi 180 arrived Downunder in time for Xmas 2003. Although most dealers chose not to receive cars until the new year, some were delivered to customers. Hence the first batch is a mix of '03 & '04 compliance plates. [sm]
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Official Peugeot Sites around the Globe ?
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Other Sites
[gc]
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Where can I find owners of other Peugeot models?
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In Australia, a group called
Aussie Frogs have a forum section where you can meet and talk to fellow French car enthusiasts - covering all models of Peugeots, Citroens and Renaults.
Peugeot 206GTi enthusiasts can visit the 206GTi Yahoo Group to meet fellow owners.
Peugeot 307 enthusiasts can visit the 307 Yahoo Group to meet fellow owners. [gc].
Peugeot 407 enthusiasts can visit the 407 Yahoo Group to meet fellow owners. [sm]
Australian Peugeot Car Clubs
[gc]
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How big is the 206GTi ? (dimensions mm)
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Length 3835mm*, Width (excluding mirrors) 1673mm, Height 1430mm, Wheelbase 2442mm, Weight 1050kg (RC/GTi180 1100kg). *GT models are 4000mm in length for WRC homologation purposes. [gc]
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GTi load carrying capacity
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The GTi load space is available in 2 basic configurations: Seats up and seats folded down, or somewhere between.
Seats Up = 245 litres
Seats Down = 1130 litres
[gc]
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How is the 206GTi interior decked out ?
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The 206GTi interior is very well spec'd, it includes: Leather/Alcantara seats, aluminium gear lever knob, drilled aluminium pedals, RDS radio/cassette and CD player, leather trimmed 3 spoke sports steering wheel, electrically adjustable demisting door mirrors, and electric front windows. Some models also have heated front seats.
[gc]
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What is a "muxed" Pug?
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Despite what it sounds like, this is not a mixed breed of dog :)
Mux is an abbreviation for Multiplexed. The PSA group (which includes Peugeot and Citroen) introduced multiplexing to their cars in 2001. A multiplexed car relies on fewer wires (up to 30% less) to accomplish the same tasks. It achieves this by sending different signals down the same wire for different components, each component knows what signal to listen for and ignores the others. This saves considerable weight in the car and its wiring loom can thus be smaller, lighter and less expensive. A BSI (Built-in Systems Interface) controls several different networks operating comfort, safety and mechanical equipment through a the single multiplex circuit. The BSI prioritises all the information coming to it so that, for instance, safety matters take precedence when necessary. A further advantage of the multiplex wiring system is improved theft protection. The 206 immobilizer system incorporates mutual interrogation between the BSI and the engine management system.
Another term used for mux can be "Plexed". [gc]
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The GTi Multi-Display - what does it tell me ?
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The Multi-Display enables the following information to be displayed.
- the time,
- the date,
- outside temp (flashes when there is an ice warning),
- radio display,
- door status (which one is open),
- warning messages (low fuel, battery low, econo-mode activated, auto wipers activated, etc)
- trip compurter
- the range,
- distance travelled,
- average fuel consumption,
- current consumption (averaged over the previous 2 seconds),
- average speed.
Pressing the stalk botton for 2 seconds will clear (zero reset) all the trip computer details.
[gc]
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How is the outside temperature measured ?
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Under the left hand mirror there is a small nipple, which is the GTi's outside temperature probe.
Removing this (to perhaps re-place the mirrors with a different kind) may render the Automatic Climate control inoperable (ie, it will always blow warm air). The sensor for the Automatic Climate control is located just to the right of the passenger's airbag. [gc]
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Electrical Trouble Shooting
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A trouble shooting guide that may assist you in identifying electrical problems.
Problem
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Possible cause
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Solution
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Aftermarket radio does not keep memory
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ISO cabling not adapted
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Change the switched - permanent power or
fit adaptor cable 970678 (-MY01),
fit adaptor cable 970686 (MY02+)
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Poor radio reception
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- faulty aerial connection
- power to signal amplifier not connected (if present)
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Check cabling
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Unexplainable faults in the car’s computer system (ECU) (MY01>)
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Wrongly connected accessories
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Check if all used connections are at the right places
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Automatic mode of the electrical windows malfunctioning
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The windows position memory is erased
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Close windows and hold switch up into automatic for at least 10 seconds
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Central lock does not react to remote key
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The keys are not set in ECU
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Start car, the keys are recognised in ECU
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Oil level gauge inaccurate (MY01>)
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Faulty software
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Get new software at the dealer
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While driving all instrumental gauges go “black” for shorter than a second (MY01>)
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Faulty software; ECU auto-resets
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Get new software at the dealer
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Taillight failure when installed / mounted a tow hook (MY01>, not SW)
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The external connector wiring causes interference in the MUX-system
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Get the dealer to mount an adaptor connector in the external wiring
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Provided by [pvl] - webbed by [gc]
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Auto Volume
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Auto volume on the head-deck is a feature implemented in muxed Peugeots (some would say an annoying feature). The volume will adjust according to the noise and speed of the car - by default it is turned on and reset every time you start the car. You can get your dealer to permanently disable this but you cannot turn it back on if they do. [gc]
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Where can I get one of those fantastic 206gti.net stickers?
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The 206gti.net promotional stickers can be seen here.
In Australia the stickers can be bought from a number of people around the country who you can meet up with locally. Outside of Australia, they can be bought from MMC directly.
To contact people with stickers, join the 206gti.net mailinglist ... and ask someone. [gc]
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206 Safety?
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The safety rating of the 206 is quite high for a small car (4 stars) or 74%. All models have drivers airbags, with the top of range GTi also endowed with side airbags, ABS and EBFD. Crash test results for the 2000 3 door hatch 4 cyl 1.3 litre (LHD) can be found here.
The 206 GTi 180 gains curtain airbags and ESP, as does the regular GTi from early 2004. [gc]
The Peugeot 206 performed reasonably well in the offset crash test (score 10.51 out of 16). Head protection was good but there was a moderate risk of serious chest injury for the passenger and moderate risk of serious leg injury for both the driver and passenger. The vehicle performed better in the side impact crash (score 14.41 out of 16). However, the driver’s head movement was excessive.
Important note:The left-hand-drive European model was tested by EuroNCAP. Australasian specifications may vary and therefore models sold in Australasia might provide different levels of protection to those described on this page.
Safety features
Dual airbags are standard equipment on the XT and GTi variants. A driver’s airbag is standard on the XR.
The front seat belt buckles are mounted on the seats and the upper anchorages are adjustable. These features improve the fit of the seat belt. Pretensioners are fitted to the front seat belts. These reduce slack in the event of a crash.
Structure
Offset crash test
The passenger compartment held its shape very well in the offset crash test. However, the brake pedal moved rearwards by 15cm. The width of the driver’s doorway shortened by 4cm. All doors remained closed during the crash. After the crash both doors could be easily opened.
Side impact crash test
The centre pillar and the side doors were pushed inwards moderately.
Restraints
Offset crash test
The airbag effectively cushioned the head of the driver and contact was stable. The knee impact area had hard areas which would give higher loads than those experienced in the test if knees impacted directly onto them. There was some padding which will help to spread the loads, although this was not sufficient to avoid penalties for the upper leg score.
Side impact crash test (no front passenger)
The dummy’s head contacted the front edge of the centre pillar as well as the bottom edge of the window. Although this did not have sufficient force to cause serious injury the large movement of the head is a cause for concern. The abdomen had some loading from the armrest and the pelvis was contacted by a foam block in the door trim.
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My key remote has stopped working
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A dead battery or sharp knock to the keys can cause the remote functions (opening doors, closing doors, and setting alarm) to stop working.
Fit a fresh battery if required, see inside the key for a close-up look.
- Place key in ignition, turn it to accessories (the point at which the radio turns on, but the engine has not started)
- Press the close button on the key for 10 secs.
- Your key should now be reprogrammed and re-sync'd.
If your BSI has been updated or reprogrammed your dealer will need to reprogram all your keys, the above method will not work.
[gc]
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What size speakers does the GTi have?
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The front speakers, located behind the door panels are 165mm (6½in) in diameter and have a depth of approx 55mm. They are made by the Goodmans Loudspeaker Company (made in UK or Hungary) and are rated at 20W.
The rear speakers, located behind the side panels next to the rear seats, are 130mm (5¼in) in diameter and have a depth of 45mm. They are also made by the Goodmans Loudspeaker Company and have a rating of 20W.
The tweeters, located behind small panels in the A pillar of the doors, are driven by wires from the front speakers, and have a simple resistor on them to filter out the low/mid frequencies. [sc]
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Will upgrading the speakers affect the stereo display?
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In a word, No.
The speakers are driven by standard 2 wire connections and are very easily replaced with more powerful units if you want to. [sc]
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So how do I change the speakers then?
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There are quite a few guides on the main page to describe the process for you.
If you want to change the front speakers, you should read these references:
The front speaker housing will only accept a speaker with a depth of approx 56mm or less, however you can cut away the plastic at the back quite easily to accept a speaker with a larger depth.
If you want to change the rear speakers, you should read these references:
[sc]
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What does ABS mean ?
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In the 206 range the GTi and CC are fitted with an anti-lock braking system (ABS) preventing the wheels from locking up during braking. When ABS is activated, the driver will notice a slight pulsation of the brake pedal. In later models, the anti-lock brake system is optimised with electronic brake-force distribution (EBFD). [gc]
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What does EBFD mean ?
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Electronic brake-force distribution (EBFD) working in tandem with Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) ensures maximum braking performance, and prevents the rear-end from breaking away because of over-braking by proportioning the braking load. [gc]
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I have squeaking brakes
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This comes from the front brake pads. Common problem, but now it's fixable, by putting in the new pads from Peugeot. When the car's still under warranty, this will be done for free!
The problem with the old pads is that they were too hard. With the new pads you finally have no squeaking and magnificent stopping power, and a firmer pedal (which stands in rest about 5mm higher) and a muuuuuuuuch better response. [pvl]
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Do I need to replace my rotors when I replace my pads?
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It is your call, but your mechanic should be able to tell you whether or not they are worn down to a thickness where the law requires you to replace them.
ABS has made rotors (the "discs") just as much a consumable as pads, and the common recommendation is that both should be replaced at the same time. Brake usage not only wears down the brake pads, but also the rotors, and when this wear becomes extreme enough, and the discs become thin enough, you will feel it through the steering wheel as a sudden and very harsh vibration as soon as your foot touches the brake pedal. That is just God telling you that you should not have left it this late to replace them ...
Above all, do NOT allow yourself to be persuaded to start machining your rotors! You will change the metal doing that and obviously you will make them even thinner than they already were (resulting in fading, warping, etc). So unless you already know how long it takes to free-wheel to a complete stop from even 50kph on level ground, unassisted -- do NOT cut corners on maintaining your brakes!
[bb/pvl]
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What are the GTi's engine specifications?
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| Bore x Stroke (85mm x 88mm) |
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Cubic capacity (1997cm3) |
| Number of valves (16) |
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Electronic Multipoint Injection. |
| Max kW @ rpm (100@6000) (note 1) or 134bhp |
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Max torque Nm @ rpm (190@4100)(note:2) or 19.8 kg-m (note 3) |
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(1) sometimes quoted at 102kw (137bhp) |
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(2) sometimes quoted at 194Nm
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(3) 17.7 kg-m (90%) @ 2000rpm. |
| 206 GTi 180 |
| Max kW @ rpm (130@7000) (note 4) |
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Max torque Nm @ rpm (202@4750) |
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(4) sometimes quoted at 133kw (177bhp)
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| [gc & sm] |
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What is the GTi's fuel tank capacity?
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Capacity (litres) 50, but depending on the petrol pump and the positioning of the car, 54+ litres is possible on occasions.. [gc] TOP
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What type of range (kms) does the GTi have ?<<< UPDATE Nov 06
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As always, range and fuel consumption is highly dependent on how "heavy" your right foot is. The official figures for the GTi city cycle is 8 litres per 100kms (or 29.4 mpg US). This gives it a range of over 600kms. The highway cycle is 5.6 litres per 100kms (or 42.0 mpg US) extending the range considerably. Everyday driving experience tells us the GTi is a car that loves to be driven, but fuel consumption never gets much above 8ltr/100km giving you at least a 550km range between fill-ups. [gc]
Extensive highway driving will give a range of 700-800km. [sm]
Obviously, the GTi180 is a little thirstier on fuel, but it’s certainly possible to get low 7s in fuel consumption (l/100km) on the highway, and you can stretch it to 700km at a pinch. Around town it’s pretty much bang on 8.6l/100km, giving it a range of 580km.[sc]
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What is a chip? Do I need one?
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It's somebody else's idea of how the Pug's engine control unit (ECU) could be better programmed. Previous discussions of chipping provided the following opinions:- the Pug development engineers had it pretty right to begin with;
- they deliver an optimum setup for performance and durability under general driving conditions;
- chipping your engine might result in damage or premature wear to it;
- it can perhaps produce improved performance under some conditions;
- if you want to try it, feel free (and be sure to report back to us); but ...
- it's probably not a good idea to do it within your warranty period.
There was some concern expressed about the possibility of ending up with what was characterized as a "Michael Jackson engine", too.And if you get a software update from the dealer (and that also happens without giving you notice) the tuned program is gone. This, because for example Superchips "optimizes the car through Serial Programming, where we hook up a Superchips SPI-KIT onto a computer and re-program the car through its service connection."
You can go to Superchips to get the tuned program back, but that you'd loose the update again! [pvl]
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How much oil should my engine use?
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Well, there are several things to say about that:
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All engines do burn oil, which is emitted again through the exhaust. The cylinders are oil-wet, fuel is burned, and so it burns the oil on the cylinder walls too. It's a simple as that. When it burns 1 litre every 1500 km you can start to worry, and when it burns one litre every 1000 km, the oil seal piston and/or cylinder is worn (one or all four).
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It goes the other way around too. The fuel/air/oil mix leaks a bit (due to the compression pressure) down into the engine/sump via the piston rings. This mixture is mostly coal so that makes the oil look used (brown) after a while. This happens excessively when the piston rings (2 per piston) are worn. The oil level in this case actually can rise! Unburned petrol slowly fills up the sump, so the "oil" level is going up! This happens frequently with older cars, which are used a lot in a stop-'n'-go fashion (read shopping cars). The cars are used for short distances (eg, 5km) and turned off again. The engine will mainly run with the (electronic) choke on and will never ever really warm up. Result: worn everything and petrol in the oil. You can check this by trying to light up the fluid at the end of a wet dipstick: if it burns for a few seconds, this will be the petrol in the oil (low burn temperature).
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"Coal" on the dipstick and/or underside of the filler cap: This is the result of infrequent oil changes as all the add-ins eventually work their way out, in combination with boiling oil (200C even though the oil temp gauge says 90C, in some places the oil can get really hot!) and low oil levels.
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"Mayonnaise" under the filler cap: this is a water oil mix. Mainly two reasons for this happening: short driving distances (see point 2) the water vapour never gets the chance to evaporate because the engine remains too cold. Nice side effect is the fact that oil is lighter than water, so it sinks to the bottom of the sump. When starting the car the oil pump starts to suck up water first and oil secondly. Result: a fast wearing engine (camshafts, big-end bearings etc...)
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Dark brown, oily, low-level radiator coolant: trouble. Mainly caused by a leaking head gasket. The engine's compression is leaking away (mostly via an oil return hole) into the cooling system. It returns the favour by squeezing hot coolant into those oil returns. So as an extra you'll get a double doses mayonnaise, eventually clogging the positive ventilation. The result of that is blown gaskets, shooting dipsticks and/or a heavy white smoking exhaust.
With most cars, the difference on the dipstick between max and min is 1 litre. The indicator on the dash is only there to give you an indication. Measure on the dipstick to be accurate, but do this when the car is standing level, both longitudinally and transversely!
From this you will see the merit in including an oil filter (even if it is not prescribed) in scheduled maintenance services. They are (obviously) very useful and cost almost nothing. What you can also do occasionally is to check the oil level, for mayo under the filler cap and (only when cold!!!) check the radiator's coolant colour and level. In addition, while you're at it; check the coolant hoses for leaks (in the form of crystallised green goo) and the power steering's reservoir for fluid level or leakage. Takes all of a minute and can save you lots of $$$. [pvl]
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Do I need to run full synthetic oil ?
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No, semi-synthetic oil is the Peugeot standard and meets warranty conditions, but it is recognised that full synthetic oil does have benefits and almost no drawbacks.
Models from August 2000, use semi-synthetic or synthetic oil. Models prior to this can run mineral oils as well. NB: Not at the same time though - do not mix oils (or even brands).
It has been *claimed* that many "synthetics" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetics (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend. Mobil 1 and AMSOIL claim they are full synthetics, Peugeot and Citroen use Total oils. To date, the true synthetic status of Total synthetic oil has not been established by anyone on 206GTi.net. [gc]
The manual for the GTi180 states "5W40 synthetic based oil only" [sc]
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What engine temperature should I see? <<< NEW Jan06
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Q: It was very hot while driving home from the city today. I caught most of the traffic lights along the way and noticed that the coolant temperature went from 90 to 96 degrees, then went down to 90 degrees again as soon as the fan kicked in. This happened in a continuous cycle, especially when the car was stuck at the lights.
However, the oil temperature went higher and higher and reached its peak at about 114 degrees ... till I got home.
Is this normal? Or is it because the oil in the car is not as good as it could be, or could it be because the car has no "proper" coolant in it at the moment (just distilled water for now)?
A: What you are seeing is normal -- the coolant is cooled directly by the radiator and the thermostatically-controlled fan, whereas while you are at a standstill, the oil is only cooled indirectly by the coolant. When you drive, the oil is also cooled by the passage of air.
Mind you, coolant that is under 2 bar of pressure boils at about 120 degrees, whereas oil boils at 275 celsius, so there are no real worries there. What you should be worrying about is using distilled water as coolant. That is far worse, if you ask me!
You should use Alusafe or an equivalent, since the engine and head are made from alloy, and even with distilled water, the alloy will oxidize, especially with the temperatures you are driving in now!
Alusafe has antioxidants in it and plain H2O clearly does not!
[bb ... Q from Daniel L, A from PVL]
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Does the 180 overheat more readily? <<< NEW Jan06
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In August, 2004, Leigh O wrote "The 180 seems to overheat very easily. Even on a freezing cold night the temp climbs." ... and Jason N added "Would using a higher grade coolant in the radiator help? Guys in the HK Pug forum talk about using a higher grade coolant called a "water wetter". Apparently it keeps the gauge needles down."
A: Any liquid-cooled car engine has a small device called a thermostat
sitting between the engine and the radiator. The thermostat in most cars is
about 50 mm in diameter. It blocks the flow of coolant to the
radiator until the engine has warmed up. When the engine is cold, no coolant
flows through the radiator, only through the engine and heater radiator
inside the cabin of the car. Once the engine reaches its operating temperature
of 85-95º C), the thermostat opens. By letting the
engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear,
deposits and emissions.
The secret of the thermostat lies in the small cylinder located on the
engine-side of the device. This cylinder is filled with a wax that begins to
melt at perhaps 82º C (a commonly used temperature). A rod connected to the
valve presses into this wax. When the wax melts, it expands enough to push the rod out of the cylinder,
thus opening the valve.
The 206 balances during warm-up between an open and
closed thermostat, and this is the reason the temperature gauge is seen to
fluctuate rapidly between 85 and 95º C. After a minute or two this
normally settles down to a steady 90º C at normal use.
The reason it oscillates is that the
cooling system of a GTi (even more so in the case of the GTi180) is
significantly over-dimensioned.
On the engine side, coolant is being heated up; on the other side it is being cooled down by the oversized radiator fitted in the driving wind. When the thermostat opens the two extreme opposite
temperatures mix, so the coolant temperature around the thermostat drops
under the magic 90º C, and forces the thermostat to close again. It
stays closed until the coolant on the engine side is again heated up by the engine,
forcing the thermostat to open; it meets the colder radiator coolant, and so
closes again.
Because the thermocouple1 (pickup) for the gauge is
on the engine side of the thermostat, it reacts accordingly.
Every time the thermostat opens, the two different temperatures of coolant
gradually come closer together. As an eventual result, the coolant
temperature on the engine side and on the radiator side of the
thermostat reach a steady temperature, the thermostat stays open, and in
its turn, it steadies the needle on the gauge.
"Super coolants" tend to exaggerate this behaviour, since they hold their temperature longer.
When [if!] the temperature of the coolant reaches about 115º C, then it starts boiling.
Its pressure rises and (to save the gaskets and O-rings) it forces the
valve in the filler cap on the coolant expansion tank open. The pressure then drops, the coolant boils even more, pressure rises more ... till you have 5 litres of coolant under the car. However, the engine is saved.
When this happens, the thermostat is probably a goner, showing itself by an always too-low temperature on the gauge and a heater that takes its time to warm up the interior.
So the engine is not overheating; the pick-up is reading "wrong", because it is surrounded by fluctuating coolant temperatures. It is a symptom of an over-dimensioned coolant system rather than an overheating engine.
| 1Thermocouple:
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a device for measuring temperature in which two wires of different metals are joined. The potential difference between the wires is a measure of the temperature of something they touch.
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[bb with input from Leigh O, Jason N and PVL]
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Do I really need to change my car's timing belt?
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Q. My mechanic says I should change my car's cam belt. How important is this? The estimate that I was given seems quite expensive, considering that the car is running perfectly OK at the moment.
A. Replacing the cam belt is an 80,000km service item, and is one that is best not avoided. The cam belt (or timing belt) is what keeps your engine's overhead camshafts in synch, ensuring that those four valves per cylinder are in their proper place and withdrawn safely out of harm's way by the time that each cylinder's piston reaches the top of its stroke. If they're not -- and this can happen if your belt breaks, or skips a few teeth -- intruding valves will be crunched by pistons and will certainly need to be replaced, and the head perhaps rebuilt altogether (oh, yes, and the belt replaced), at a considerably greater expense before you can use the car again.
You would also be well advised to consider replacing the belt's tensioner pulley (c $AU90) and the engine's water pump (c $AU170) at the same time, since the engine is going to need to be lifted in order to remove and refit the timing belt in any case. The tensioner pulley, as its name suggests, maintains a consistent tension in the belt, and is recommended by Peugeot for replacement at the same time as the belt. The water pump propels engine coolant from the block to the radiator and if worn can result in coolant leakage, which might not only lead to a cooked engine, but long before then might itself run down and compromise the operation of the timing belt or pulley.
Your service handbook will confirm that the cambelt is a scheduled replacement item at the 4 year / 80,000 km service, and again at the 160,000 km service. It should cost from $AU140 - $AU175, depending on your service centre's uplift on standard Peugeot parts, and it is scheduled to take an additional 3.3 hours of labour to replace.
If you're being advised to replace the belt at any other time, it could be because of the age of the belt, rather than because of its absolute mileage. If that's the case, then you should accept that recommendation and have it changed, along with the tensioner. The water pump should only wear with use (mileage), not age, although a prudent owner will ensure that the mechanic checks for signs of weeping with the engine cover removed. The belt, being a rubberized silicon compound will degrade with age and stretch under the tension of the pulley regardless of how far -- or even whether or not -- you have driven the car.
Costs of this service sometimes seem to be higher if they're being borne by a leasing company. They can be higher again through repetition (ask me how I know) if you don't have all three components -- belt, water pump and tension pulley -- replaced at the same time, and if you are unlucky enough to have the one that you didn't replace, fail. But they can be extremely high -- with the likelihood increasing daily -- if you decide to take a chance and just skip this work altogether, or maybe postpone it till the next scheduled service.
Put that next iPod upgrade on the back burner, and invest instead in these vital engine parts!
[bb ... with input from SM, SM, SC, JN and PvL]
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206GTi gearbox ratios
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Gearbox ratios for the 206GTi, 206GTi180, 306GTi-6, 307 2.0 and 307HDi
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206GTi
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206GTi180
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306GTi-6 |
307 2.0 |
307HDi |
Ratio 1:
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3.455
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2.923
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2.923
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3.455
|
3.455
|
Ratio 2:
|
1.870
|
1.870
|
1.869
|
1.870
|
1.870
|
Ratio 3:
|
1.360
|
1.360
|
1.414
|
1.360
|
1.148
|
Ratio 4:
|
1.051
|
1.051
|
1.148
|
1.051
|
0.822
|
Ratio 5:
|
0.861
|
0.861
|
0.951
|
0.861
|
0.660
|
Ratio 6:
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
0.795
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
Reverse:
|
3.333
|
2.584
|
2.584
|
3.333
|
3.333
|
Final Drive:
|
3.790
|
3.948
|
4.05
|
4.054
|
3.948
|
[gc / sm]
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Can I fit a 6-speed gearbox? <<< NEW Dec 06
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Q: I own a Peugeot SW 2.0 S16 GTi car and I am feeling restricted by the short ratio of the gearbox I have (5th ratio - at 3500RPM, only 110km/h), so I was wondering if there is a 6-speed gearbox that I could put in my car to decrease engine revs and thus also reduce its fuel consumption?
A: First of all, in very simple terms, your fuel consumption is related to the use of your right foot. The more you floor it, the more you burn fuel.
But staying too long in low (indirect) gears can have the same effect. You can generally change up at engine speeds from as low as 1500 rpm. If you have been changing at higher revs, that should also reduce your fuel consumption significantly too.
There is no 6-speed gearbox that will fit the EW engine without increasing the radius of your [already-substantial] turning circle -- at least, no gearbox for street use (for which, read: angle-cut and synchromeshed).
The subject has been previously discussed in the online group and a possible solution could be to change the fifth gear to the one fitted in the 407 1.8L, which is significantly longer and offers a (hypothetical) 240km/h against the (theoretical) 220km/h at 6500 rpm of the standard gearbox.
Another option is to fit the complete gearbox of a 2.0L 307 or a 1.8L/2.0L 407. That would be the easiest solution, and might seem especially attractive or affordable if your gearbox is due for a clutch replacement in any case.
Fuel economy of 8.6L/100 km is very achievable with normal, spirited driving, but that means shifting gears at 3500-4000 rpm and staying in higher gears as much as possible.
Note (1): The gearboxes fitted in all 2L 206s are the same, apart from the fact that:
- The box fitted in the 180/RC has a longer first gear.
- LHD 206 models have "cable clutch" apart from the 180, which always has a "hydraulic clutch".
Note (2):A subscriber with access to autobahn-speed travel once tried an 800 km trip in two ways:
- Going out: full throttle all the way results in almost 3 petrol fills and a 6-hour trip.
- Coming back: keeping the car steady at 150kph results in 1 3/4 fills and a 6.5-hour tour.
At 150 km/h the car consumes 10L/100km and at full throttle, almost 15/100, a 50% increase for a gain of maybe a half-hour in a 6-hour trip.
Note (3): you would need to drive a lot in order to recover the investment of a (used) gearbox or a new 5th gear.
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Can I gain horsepower by "killing the cat"? <<< NEW May 06
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The question is meaningless if it is illegal in your country to do so on a road-going vehicle, as it is in many (most) countries. Pollution controls on modern cars mean that you would be better advised to look elsewhere (or get a REALLY good book) if you were considering suicide by motor exhaust. And if you do nevertheless decide to remove the converter from your car, be aware that its new chemical signature will mark you indelibly to roadside monitoring stations, even in a heavy stream of traffic, and that (in Australia at least) the penalties for doing this tend to be in the five-figure region of "pretty severe".
"De-catting" helped in the 80s, because when they were first introduced (as an imposed add-on), catalytic converters tended to kill the exhaust flow. However, since cars these days are made with a cat in mind, they will actually run worse without it!
Plus...
If your 206 is a fully-muxed model (MY02 and later), the exhaust actually has two O² probes: one before and another just after the catalytic converter. There must be a significant difference between the feed-back from those two, otherwise the ECU will pop into save-mode and all the red lights on your dash will start flashing, urging you to contact the dealers ASAP. If you are able to drive at all, you will be happy if you can get over 50km/h ...
What is possible, and might make a difference, is to change the OEM ceramic catalytic converter of a GTi 138 (if you own that model) to the converter from a GTi180 (RC), which is a steel cat. The latter has better flow, but because of reduced back-pressure, it also has the tendency to eat low-end torque (where you drive 99% of the time) in favour of a fraction higher output just before you hit the rev limiter (where you will be 1% of the time, maybe).
Long-short: forget it.
pvl [pp bb]
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GTi Rim / Tyre size ?
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MY99-MY01 185/55 R15V
MY01-MY04 205/45 R16Z
MY03-MY04 GTi180/RC 205/40 R17W.
You'll find a pretty good introduction to everything you need to know about tyres in an article in the first edition of Peugeot Australia's "The Loop" e-zine. And among a whole wealth of other information about wheels and tyres, you'll find a pretty slick little piece of JavaScript to calculate wheel-and-tyre equivalences and rolling-radius differentials as a result of substitutions in Chris Longhurst's "Car Maintenance Bible" pages here.
[gc / bb]
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What does the tyre's load rating mean?
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The load rating is a recently-added tyre performance guide in compliance with Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN, or German Industrial Standards). It indicates the maximum load capacity per tyre at which the tyre can be safely operated, subject to the tyre being in sound condition, correctly fitted, and with recommended inflation pressures (85 in the following table, for example, represents a maximum load of 515kg per tyre). It is intended to be used in conjunction with the tyre's speed rating code.
While it's generally OK to use a higher load rating than what's recommended for your car, it's definitely not OK to fit a lower-rated tyre. The tyre pressure label on my MY99 138, for example, states:
The tyres fitted to this vehicle shall have a maximum load rating not less than "(82)" or 475kg and a speed category not less than "V".
The MY04 180's tyre pressure label, on the other hand, says:
The tyres fitted to this vehicle shall have a maximum load rating not less than "(84)" or 500kg and a speed category not less than "W".
Typical passenger car tyre load ratings
| Load Index |
80 |
82 |
84 |
85 |
86 |
88 |
90 |
92 |
94 |
96 |
| Max Load/tyre (kg) |
450 |
475 |
500 |
515 |
530 |
560 |
600 |
630 |
670 |
710 |
[bb]
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What does the tyre's speed rating mean?
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The speed rating is a guide that assists in fitting the correct tyre to match the performance of the car. As the top speed of the GTi is approximately 220kph, both "V" and "Z" rated tyres are more than adequate.
- N = 140 km/h (87 mph), Space Saver Spare Tires
- P = 150 km/h (93 mph)
- Q = 160 km/h (99 mph), Winter, LT Tires
- R = 170 km/h (106 mph), LT Tires
- S = 180 km/h (112 mph)
- T = 190 km/h (118 mph)
- U = 200 km/h (124 mph)
- H = 210 km/h (130 mph), Sport Sedans
- V = 240 km/h (149 mph), Sports Cars
- Z = 240 km/h and over (149 mph), Sports Cars
- W = 270 km/h (168 mph), Exotic Sport Cars
- Y = 300 km/h (186 mph), Exotic Sport Cars
[gc]
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When should I rotate the tyres ?
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Tyres should be rotated every 10,000kms. While no one likes their tyres to wear out, it is actually an advantage when all of the tyres on a vehicle wear at the same rate throughout their life. As tyre wear reduces tread depth, it allows the tyres to respond to the driver's input more quickly and increases dry road performance (and conversely can reduce wet weather performance). Since tyre rotation will help all of the vehicle’s tyres wear at the same rate, it will keep the tyres performing equally on all four corners. If you use directional tyres (e.g. Eagle F1's) it is important that they stay on the same side of the car. Uni-directional tyres can swap vehicle sides. [gc]
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What tyres should I fit to the GTi?
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The obvious answer is the correct size, there are exceptions. You can increase the tyre size so long as the ratio of the tyre also is adjusted. This ensures the wheel has essentially the same rolling radius.
eg. 185/55/15 can be replaced by 195/50/15, whilst this will result in a 1.5% decrease in rolling diameter, this is considered insignificant. The 185/55/15 is an odd size tyre, ie it isn't in wide use by manufacturers. Another option is the 205/50/15. Rolling diameter is almost identical and the cost significantly lower.
Similarly 205/45 ZR16 can be replaced with 215/35 ZR17*, again this will result in a 1.5% decrease in rolling diameter. Meaning when your speedo reads 100kph you are actually traveling 98.5kph. *Note rim size has actually been increased as well in this case.
The brand of tyre is a matter of personal preference. Your decision should be based on the following criteria - - Wear resistance,
- performance and grip,
- noise,
- comfort and
- cost,
... always bearing in mind that substituting a lower load rating than the original tyres will jeopardize your car's insurance in the event of an accident.
Another consideration is the speed rating. By law a lower speed rated tyre cannot be fitted to a car than that which is specified. Higher speed rated tyres can be fitted.
Try out this tyre calculator. [gc, bb & sm]
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New rims ... what will fit?
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Because of the slightly larger guards on the GTi you can fit 17x7" rims (with the appropriate 35 profile tyres). What wheel looks best? There is no one best answer, but remember the closer the spokes approach the rim, the larger the wheel will look. The easiest options are Peugeot rims as the spacing will be correct; some after market rims will fit with the addition of a spacer kit. [gc]
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OK, what 15 inch tyres have people tried?
|
[mmc]
I run Yokohama A539s on my 206gti - they have better grip than the P6000s and also cost less. I run 195/50/15's which costs less - have slightly smaller diameter than 185/55s
[bb]
I tried replacing my P6000s with 185-55/15 Michelin Pilot SX-GTs. Went back to P6000s because I prefer their firmer ride, more predictable handling and better wear characteristics. [sm]
When the Pirelli P6000s wore out I replaced them with Falken ze512 195/55/15. My primary goal for the new tyre was decreased noise.
I chose this size as I was looking to decrease the speedo error. A friend had his '99 GTi tested on RACQ's rolling road. The results with his 185/55/15 P6000 was a 6kph error for every 10kph increment from 40-100kph.
I had my new Falkens tested by the RACQ and the increase in rolling diameter resulted in a 3kph error for every 10kph increment from 40-100kph.
[sc]
1) I tried the P6000s for quite a while, and found that by rotating them every 5000km, they lasted quite well, but they are a very noisy tyre after about 10k, and can be difficult to get hold of sometimes.
2) I then tried Bridgestone RE040s in the standard size - 185/55/15 - and I was quite impressed with these. An excellent all round tyre and are probably a bit cheaper and easier to get hold of for those not wanting to change tyre sizes.
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OK, what 16 inch tyres have people tried? <<< UPDATE Nov 06
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[pvl]
I had P6000s 185/55/15 on my previous XSi and changed after a year to Bridgestone Potenza RE720, because of the noise of the Pirellis I got on my car. The Bridgestones were according to me so good (silent, grip) that, when I got my new GTi SW, I had the original Goodyears changed before delivery to the same Potenzas, but in the size 205/45/16. The choice of tyres is always subject to personal opinion. What is good for me could be less for you. But after a bad experience you know what not to buy ever again.
[Rudi Z]
I have got Yoko AVS ES100 on the 16s and I do not really have any
gripes. Done over 10,000kms on them now .They have really square
edges which can give you a little more tramlining under brakes, and
I confess that they are not that fantastic in the wet, however their
cornering ability is very very good.
At first you think you are not going that fast as they give a good
sense of stability, but a look at the speedo mid corner and you
realise that you are going pretty quick.
[sc]
These days, the tyre of choice appears to be the Goodyear F1 GS-D3 - a much better tyre than the standard fitment GS-D2.
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OK, what 17 inch tyres have people tried?<<< NEW Nov 06
|
A number of us have tried and like Pirelli P Zero Nero tyres for the 180, as a direct replacement for the P7000. It is a much quieter tyre, can be fitted in any position (the P7000s are unidirectional only), but is not that cheap.
Dunlop Sport SP Maxx is also proving to be popular, as this unusual size becomes more common, and appears much cheaper than either of the Pirellis. [sc]
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What tyre pressures should I use?
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The choice of tyre pressures is always subject to personal opinion, up to (or down to) a certain point, beyond which your tyres will deteriorate fairly quickly, and no insurance company will want to know about you.
Under-inflation will have you wearing out the shoulders of the tyre, over-inflation will wear out the middle first (and make for a very hard and uncomfortable ride). What is good for me could be less for you, but at least you now know what the basis is from which you can feel free to deviate according to your taste.
The GTi180/RC arrives with OEM 205/40R17 Pirelli P7000s. Unfortunately, it seems that it does not always arrive with the [required] inflation label on the B pillar. Advice that we have received indicates that the correct pressure for these tyres is 2.4 bar (or 35.2 psi).
These are the generally accepted pressure recommendations with factory fitted tyres. (PSI front / PSI rear)
- GTi138 MY99-MY01 185/55 R15V - 35/35
- GTi138 MY01-MY04 205/45 R16Z - 33/33
- GTi180/RC MY03-MY04 205/40 R17W. - 35/35
When possible never rely on the service station inflation gauges to be accurate, they have been known to be 5 PSI or MORE out on occasions
[bb / gc]
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How much do Peugeot rims/tyres weigh ?
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A standard issue Peugeot 15" 206GTI alloy rim weighs 7.61kg and 16" alloy rim weighs 10.1kg.
Leigh O says that the rim and the 205/40R17 P7000 from the GTi180 together weigh 16.5 kg.
Pirelli Australia say that the 205/40R17 P7000 weighs 8.11 kg, meaning the 180 rim actually weighs 8.4 kg.
Some tyre weights (more to be added as results found)
- 185/55 R15 Pirelli P6000 = 7.9kg
- 195/50 R15 Toyo T1-S = 7.9kg
- 195/50 R15 Bridgestone Potenza S-03 PP = 9.4kg
- 195/50 R15 Eagle F1 GS-D3 = 8.2kg
- 195/55 R15 Eagle F1 GS-D2 = 9.2kg
- 205/45 R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D2= 8.5kg
- 205/45 R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3= 8.4kg
- 205/45 R16 Pirelli P0 A = 8.5kg
- 205/45 R16 Dunlop SP9000 = 8.1kg
- 205/45 R16 Dunlop W-10 = 8.9kg
- 205/45 R16 Yokohama A520 = 9.0kg
- 205/50 R16 Pirelli P7000 = 9.1kg
- 205/40 R17 Pirelli P7000 = 8.11kg (see above)
[gc/bb/slc]
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Peugeot Wheel Stud Patterns
|
|
Model |
P.C.D. |
Offset |
C/Bore |
|
106 (3-stud) |
3 x 98 |
9...12 |
58.0 |
|
106 (4-stud) |
4 x 108 |
12...15 |
65.0 |
|
205, 306, 309, 405, 406 |
4 x 108 |
15...22 |
65.0 |
|
206, 307 |
4 x 108 |
25 |
65.0 |
|
605XM |
5 x 108 |
35 |
65.0 |
|
806 |
5 x 98 |
28...30 |
58.0 |
Offset is the distance between the imaginary centreline of the wheel (as viewed from behind the wheel as it would roll away from you) and the inside face that bolts up against the wheel hub on the car. Fitting wheels that alters the track of your car (the distance between the centre of the left and right wheels, either front or rear) by more than 20mm will usually void any insurance policy, that means the offset cannot be any more than 10mm different per wheel than standard.
As an aside, the other two things to look for when fitting after market wheels is the PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) and spigot size. The PCD is easy to match as this relates to the number of studs you need to hold the wheel on the car. The ACTUAL meaning is the radial distance of the studs from the centre of the wheel.
Spigot size (C/Bore) is a bit trickier....the spigot is the bit in the centre of the hub that you rest the inside centre of the wheel on whilst aligning the studs and screwing back the wheel nuts. On generic after market wheels, the spigot hole inside the wheels is a lot bigger than the spigot on the car. So what you need to do in this case is fit spigot locating rings. These are just rings of aluminium or hard plastic, that fit over the spigot on your car and then have a proper fit with the spigot hole on the wheel. If you do not have the spigot taking all the weight of the car, chances are you will break one or more studs when you drive the car hard or have to brake hard. Remember the wheel nuts are simply there to hold the wheel on, NOT support the weight of the car. Also, as there is nothing to centre the wheel, you will notice the wheels go in and out of balance because as you drive around, they will move around on the hub. [gc]
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GTi Suspension ?
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The GTi has independent MacPherson type struts at the front, and independent trailing arms with transverse torsion bars at the rear. Both the front and rear have anti-roll bars. Dampeners are gas type. [gc]
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Can I lower my GTi ?
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Simply Yes, an Eibach spring kit is available as a genuine Peugeot part. (part #9160401) This lowers the car 30mm. Lowering the rear is optional as it requires an adjustment to the torsion bar - this is best left to the dealer. [gc]Make sure you understand just where your car's sump is in relation to flat ground. Also be aware that if you lower the front end, petrol station driveway entrances can become a hazard. Be aware also that if you lower the rear by a disproportionate amount, you cut off some of your rear vision ... and thus you may not notice approaching vehicles (including emergency vehicles) (including police vehicles ...).
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What headlight globes does the GTi use ? <<< UPDATE Jan 06
|
The GTi uses 2 sets of H7 globes (4 in total). I can personally recommend Philips Vision Plus (for the high beam) and Philips Blue Vision (low beam) or any combination of the two sets of globes in pairs. Thanks to PVL, you can follow these simple
instructions for globe changes. [gc]
PVL has now added a page listing all the globes and globe types for the 206 GTi here [sc]
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What foglight globes does the GTi use ? <<< UPDATE Jan 06
|
The front fog lamps take 55W H1 Globes.
To access the globes you need to approach it from the inside guard.
Press under the access flap to release it.
Open the Flap
Remove rear globe cover by turning it.
Disconnect the bulb by pressing the two ends of the securing clip
Never touch the bulb with your fingers, because the oils present on your hands will reduce its life. [gc]
PVL has now added a page listing all the globes and globe types for the 206 GTi here [sc]
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My tinting around the edge has white bubbles ?
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Because of the dots around the edge of the windows, some tints do not stick properly. This may settle down over time. Not everyone has this problem, if you do and it's a concern take it back to the tint installer. [gc]
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My centre console squeaks, how do I fix it ?
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In the majority of cases it is the radio rubbing on the surrounding material. Remove the radio and use something (the loop side of velcro is good) to pad the surface in places. [gc]
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I've lost my remote key - what can I do ?
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Unfortunately nothing but order a new key - if you have a Peugeot Alarm you will have no choice as the key arms/disarms it. Replacement cost for MY01-03 units is $162AUD and 4-6 weeks delivery time. [gc]
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What is that buzzing sound @ 2800 - 3000 rpm ?
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The buzz comes up at about 2800 revs, where the engine shakes at such a rate that the plastic engine cover plate starts resonating against the camshaft cover underneath it. A simple fix can be found here. [gc]
Some find it to be a pretty reliable non-visual reminder that you are travelling at 20 km/h in 1st, 40 in 2nd, 60 /80 etc. Vastly more drivers seem to be annoyed by it.
[bb]
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What is that tappet noise when I’m accelerating hard? <<< UPDATE Nov 06
|
|
Peugeot’s exhaust manifold design is a set of 4 pipes located in a common exhaust manifold, and the strange tappet noise sounds like a common case of the exhaust manifold pipes rattling in that manifold.
This is a reasonably common occurrence on the GTi (at least up until the ’03 model), and requires that the manifold be removed and a few tack welds put in place to cure the noise.
Originally Peugeot insisted that the manifold be replaced, only for the problem to eventually reoccur. These days it is a simple case of removing the manifold and applying a few well-placed tack welds, all done at your friendly Peugeot Service place.
You can read a little about the procedure here:
Noise on acceleration
A few people on the list have had this done, but it’s usually under warranty so I have no idea how much a dealer would charge for this. [sc]
Someone here in Sydney has just had the manifold welded for a labour charge of approx $120 (this includes removing and installing the manifold), and was at a Sydney Peugeot Dealer - 16 Nov 06 [sc]
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What is a Quickshift (QS) ?
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A quickshift is an additional linkage that reduces the throw length of the gear changes. It is suitable for all 206s (except the diesel variants and the new GTi 180). Installation is straight forward and can be completed in less then 1hr. The most popular supplier is Griffiths Engineering and DIY installation instructions can be found here and here. [gc]
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My service indicator (spanner) is set wrong ?
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Peugeot 206 Service Indicator Information
Service Indicator
This informs you when the next service is due, according to the manufacturer’s servicing schedule.
Operation
As soon as the ignition is switched on, and for 2 seconds (if the next service is due after more than 1000 miles) or 5 seconds (if the next service is due within 1000 miles) the spanner symbolising " service due" is lit: the trip recorder display shows you the distance remaining (in round figures) before the next service.
If the distance remaining before the next service is less than 500 miles, then the Spanner symbol will remain lit after 5 seconds. This indicates that a service should be carried out.
To change the Service Interval
- Switch off the ignition
- Press and Hold the daytrip meter button situated to the right/bottom of the Rev counter
- Switch on the ignition
- The display will begin a 10 second countdown.
- Release the button before the countdown finishes
- The service interval is displayed
- Each brief press of the button alternates the setting
- When the required service interval is displayed, press the button for 10 seconds to confirm.
Zero Reset (Remove "Spanner" symbol)
Your Peugeot dealer will carry out this operation after each service.
However, if you carry out the service yourself, the reset procedure is as follows.
- Switch off the ignition
- Press and hold the daytrip meter button situated to the right/bottom of the Rev counter
- Switch on the ignition (the display begins a 10 second countdown.)
- Keep the Button pressed for 10 seconds.
The display shows [=0] and the service indicator (spanner) disappears
Provided by [pvl] - webbed by [gc]
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